The following is an article from The Weimaraner Magazine March 2002

by Lawrence Glickman, VMD Non-Dietary Risk Factors, reported by Judy Colan The 5-year bloat study, funded by the AKC Canine Health Foundation and several Parent clubs, including the WCA, has been completed. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the study i will give you a brief summary of the purpose and aims of the study and the findings.

Objective:  To identify non-dietary risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) in large breed and giant breed dogs.

Animals:  1991 dogs over six months of age of the following breeds were enrolled in the study: Akita, Bloodhound, Collie, Great Dane, Irish Setter, Irish Wolfhound, Newfoundland, Rottweiler, Saint Bernard, Standard Poodle, and Weimaraner.

Procedure:  Dogs of varying ages that did not have previous history of GDV were recruited at dog shows. The dog's length and height and the depth and width of its thorax and abdomen were measured. Extensive information concerning the dog's medical history, genetic background, personality and diet was obtained from the owners. owners were contacted by mail and telephone at approximately one year intervals to determine the status of the dog.

The following is a synopsis of the findings. Many of these findings are contrary to methods of prevention which have been favored in the past.

Factors which were found to increase the risk of bloat.

1. Increased Age
   
   
2. Having a first degree relative who has bloated (offspring 4X the risk, siblings 3X the risk & parents 1.5X the risk)
   
   
3. Deep, narrow thorax/abdomen
   
   
4. Underweight
   
   
5. Feeding only once daily
   
   
6. Fearful, easily upset dogs
   
   
7. Raising food bowl
   
   
8. Rapid eaters
   
   

Factors which did NOT appear to influence risk of bloat.

1. Moistening food
   
   
2. Exercise before or after mealtime
   
   
3. Change of weather
   
   
4. Stress
   
   
5. Unrestricted access to water before or after mealtime
   
   

The one factor that was consistently associated with a lower risk of bloat was having a personality that the owner described as "Happy."

Increased Age

There is a 20% increase in risk for each year increase in age.

Having a First Degree Relative with Bloat

This turned out to be one of the strongest predictors. Dogs with such a relative had a 3 and 4 fold increased risk of developing bloat. A first degree relative was defined as either a parent, sibling, or offspring.

Deep narrow Thorax/Abdomen

Dogs which were broader in body type had a lower incidence of bloat. Dr. Glickman postulates that the deeper and narrower the abdomen, the greater the room for the stomach ligaments to stretch down or lengthen as part of the aging process.

Underweight Dogs

Dr. Glickman felt that these underweight dogs may have problems with their gastrointestinal tract which prevents them from gaining weight and that would predispose them to bloat.

Feeding Only Once Daily

Several studies, including this one, showed that as the number of meals increased per day, the risk of bloat decreased.

Fearful, Easily Upset Dogs

Personality turned out to be a major predictor. According to Glickman, it is not the amount of stress in a dog's life that is significant, but the way in which the dog handles the stress. "When animals are placed under stress, there are certain stress hormonal and neural responses. Some of these responses affect gastric motility. A fearful dog may have a very different response physiologically to stress than a happy, easygoing dog. We think those physiological responses my contribute to the rotation of the stomach because of the motility. This is the second or third time we have demonstrated temperament, particularly easygoingness or fearfulness is related to the risk of bloat.".

Raising Food Bowl

The study revealed that the higher the bowl, the higher the risk. Dr. Glickman feels the elevation may be causing an increased incidence of swallowing air which could account for the higher risk.

Rapid Eaters

Since bloat does not usually occur immediately after eating, Dr. Glickman has no explanation for this. He did find that the faster the dog ate, the greater the risk of bloat.

Dr. Glickmans Recommendations For Lowering The Risk Of Bloat

1. Don't breed a dog if a first degree relative has suffered an episode of bloat.
2. Consider a prophylactic gastroplexy for dogs that fit the high risk profile.
3. Owners of anxious or fearful dogs should consider behavior modification and consult a behaviorist.
4. Feed smaller, multiple meals instead of one large meal per day.
5. Do NOT elevate food bowl.
6. Owners who have dogs that eat rapidly should do anything to slow the speed of eating. the most common and effective way was to place a large object in the food bowl that the dog had to eat around. A suggestion was a heavy link chain which forces the dog to eat under and around it.

Results of 5 Year Bloat Study By Lawrence Glickman, VMD Dietary Risk Factors

Dietary risk factors for bloat (GDV) in dogs were identified using the 1991 dogs from the study. 106 dogs that developed bloat were selected as cases while 212 other dogs from the study were randomly selected as controls. A complete profile of intakes was constructed for each dog based on owner-reported information, published references and nutritional database.

The study confirmed previous reports of an increased risk of GDV associated with increasing age, having a first-degree relative with GDV and having a raised food bowl. new significant findings included a 2.6 fold (160%) increased risk of GDV in dogs that consumed dry foods containing fat* among the first four ingredients. The GDV increased 3 fold (200%) in dogs that consumed dry food containing citric acid* as a preservative. Dry foods containing a rendered meat meal with bone product among the first four ingredients significantly decreased GDV risk by 53%. Moistening of dry food alone was not associated with GDV but consumption of owner-moistened dry foods that also contained citric acid significantly increased GDV 4 fold (300%). Approximately 30 and 33% of all cases of GDV in this food related study could be attributed to consumption of dry food containing fat among the first four ingredients or citric acid, respectively. These findings can be used by owners to select dry foods that my reduce the risk of GDV.

* The information on fat and preservatives can be found under "Ingredients" not "Guaranteed Analysis"

The following is an article from the AKC Gazette August 1984
by Carol Benjamin, Second-Hand Dog

The second-hand dog has become commonplace. he may be a champion you purchase from a fine kennel. She may be an established brood bitch you wish to add to your breeding program. Or it may be a dog who was disappointing as a show prospect. More often than not, the second-hand dog is slated for pethood and his somewhat checkered past is rarely revealed in full, in fact, the dog in your life who needs a bit of patching and refurbishing may even be a found dog, a treasure left somewhere to fend for himself in a cold, cold world.

Whether the older, used, second-hand, pass-around dog, you know was recycled for a "legitimate" reason or not, you will have taken on a problem. Solving the problem, or more accurately, the set of problems that come with your new pet, can be a most satisfying, and necessary, pastime.

If your second-hand dog has been abused, neglected or battered in any way, even by being low man on his pack's totem pole, you'll want to change your rules and standards for him, at least for the first few months. I would not take a dog who had been wandering the streets or neglected in a kennel run and teach it not to jump up. In fact, I'd be delighted to see a dog with that history jumping up to say hello. And while any new dog needs a dose of R and R (rules and regulations), the hand-me-down dog needs more than that. He needs, in fact, more of everything; more good food; more grooming; more contact; more company; more bonding activities; more long, solitary walks with you; more exposure to your particular environment; more time in your car; more games; more patient training.

Since every dog has a history, if your new friend comes without one - or with a sketchy one - careful observation will help fill in the missing details. you'll never get them all, but you'll get a surprising amount of information by watching quietly while your dog adjusts to his new home and new playmates. you'll learn more by watching without interfering than you'll learn by jumping in and trying to control what he does. Eventually, alone with him, collar and leash securely on your pet, the training process will be another stage in your learning about him, while he learns to understand what you want and what you'll praise or correct.

While each of us has certain standards of behavior for our pets, the second-hand dog, in some severe cases, may not be able to live up to your most fair standards. Something in his past, something you may or may not know about, may eliminate the possibility of you using a crate, for example. There are some dogs that will not tolerate confinement, especially if they are grown when first exposed to it. In this case, the dog may be destructive when left alone. This is a most difficult rehabilitation case because it will take a month or more to work the dog out of it. The chore of convincing the dog that past is past and this is now, will take time and cannot be done with words. But if you are one of those who feels that "if it isn't me who'll help, who will it be," here are some guidelines for helping a slightly or very used do to adjust well to your new and loving home. Remember that you may not be able to do all of these things with every pass-around dog, particularly, as stated, item #1.

1. Buy and use a crate. Give your wanderer a permanent den, a room with a view, a place to call home, somewhere where he can dream and rest in peace. In most cases, the crate will offer security to the dog who badly needs just that. Some dogs will do better with the crate in the hub of the house -- the den or kitchen. Others need a quiet place. Some like a good view and even some conversation while they rest. Others need a towel draped over the crate or the comfort of a semi-closed up, airline-type crate rather than the all wire models. This can be discovered only by trial and error. Luckily, most of these dogs, even the homeliest ones are so sweet and needy that you won't want to stop trying until you get the job done.
   
   
2. Bonding is urgent. Make time for him in your life. Tie your new dog's leash to your belt and keep him attached for five minutes at a time, working up to two hours a day, indoors and out. Tie up time is silent time. don't keep hammering away at the animal in an effort to get acquainted. Don't be a distracter. Let him understand the full implication of the physical attachment to you (leash on belt) and let him make the decision to watch you. dogs are not verbal animals. Give him time to absorb the way things are in silence. he's smart. He'll get it. He'll become attached to you and figuratively as he is literally in this exercise.
   
   
3. Train with patience, affection, and quiet firmness. Your rules and regulations will help make the dog secure in his new home. But he has lost something profound. He'll need reasons to feel proud of himself again. You can give him those. Whenever he does something worthy; let him know it. Don't gush and stop the training. Call to him like his mother used to and keep the work flowing. work is the best medicine for anxious, insecure creatures. It even works for people in trouble.
   
   
4. Give your pass-around pet the best diet you can afford. He needs it to combat the stress of change. Even if the change is for the better, it will still cause stress at first.
   
   
5. Explore with your new dog. First, explore your house and grounds with him. If your "grounds" are your block, fine. Explore it. Continue off your property and into your neighborhood. Make big circles, the way he would. Walk around the block one way and reverse the next. Walk from your drive-way left and go right the next day. You can watch him getting familiar with the turf and enjoying knowing where home is. Ah, home. Who doesn't feel that way? Now, play a game with him. when you get near home (a house away, a block away, an acre away), tell him GO HOME, GO HOME and run him to your door. now, get down with him and praise and hug. Kissing is in order, too. Here's a dog who'll soak up affection. That, in fact, is one of the rewards of working with a slightly used dog. Now take your dog out in the car when you have places to go. Show him the world. Make him bold. Make him yours.
   
   
6. Grooming time isn't just for knots and mats. Grooming him relaxes both of you. It's another quiet way of getting the message across -- I love you, kid. You're here to stay. Grooming is a nice ending for a walk, a training session, a hectic day.
   
   
7. The dog is a contemplative animal. He's a hairy computer. He likes to look around, take things in, occasionally make a print out. Take some long, silent walks with your new friend. Get to know him away from home, away from your kennel, your kids, your other dogs, your phone, your Cuisinart, your answering machine, your power mower. go someplace quiet and pretty and watch your little sponge soak it up. Learn to see like a dog, like this dog. You'll love it.
   
   
8. Bed your new dog down in your room. That's seven or eight hours of bonding time at no cost to you. Again, it's an important message. You belong to me. But don't, in your zealousness, let the dog spend the night on the bed with you. This message says, We're equals. And, of course, you're not. While you may have to put up with time of crying or destruction or jumping that you would not tolerate from a dog who started out with you, still you do not want to initiate anything that is false, that is a lie. Keep the dog in his place, in his crate or on a mat, but in your room. Staying alpha will help get the proper message to your dog. And that will help the rehabilitation process along, too.
   
   

It is not true that a puppy will only make a strong bond during the first few months of his life. And while it is indeed wonderful to bring home a wool ball who still smells like mother's milk and raise him "from scratch," second-hand dog can also become a fast friend. He can indeed bond well to a second owner and he can indeed provide the kind of loyalty and companionship that bonds all of us to the family's dog. The rehabilitation of a second-hand dog is, in fact, a rich project, one you're unlikely to regret or forget.

How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Rutherford and Neil

Choosing the Right Dog by John Howe

The Right Dog for You by Daniel F. Tortora

Your Purebred Puppy, A Buyer's Guide by Michele Lowell

Mother Knows Best - The Natural Way to Train Your Dog by Carol Benjamin

PupQuest - Learn to Be Puppy-Source Savvy